A short guide to linen weights

Step by step

1. Step 1

   Handkerchief, 100–150 gsm

   Sheer and soft. Bread cloths, napkins, summer blouses, curtain sheers. French seams love it. It wrinkles beautifully and gives no structure at all.

2. Step 2

   Medium, 150–200 gsm

   The everyday weight. Table linens, shirts, dresses, lightweight aprons. Opaque, presses crisp, forgiving to sew.

3. Step 3

   Heavy, 200–260 gsm

   Aprons, tea towels, cushion covers, tote linings. Holds a fold, needs a bigger needle and a clapper at the hems.

4. Step 4

   Upholstery, 260 gsm and up

   Structured bags, seat covers, workwear. Sew slowly with heavy thread, and expect it to soften over a year of use rather than a week.

5. Step 5

   Always prewash

   Linen shrinks between three and ten percent. Wash and dry the cloth exactly as the finished thing will be washed, before you cut a single piece.