Writing

Finch Journal

Letters from the kitchen, the workshop and the road. Written honestly, published when there is something worth saying.

From the kitchen

Three tips for cold-weather sourdough

Winter does not ruin your starter. It just slows it down and asks you to pay attention.

01

Find the warm pocket in a cold house

Your kitchen counter in January is not room temperature — it is fifteen degrees colder than your starter wants. Move the bowl to the top of the refrigerator, inside the oven with only the light on, or on a folded wool blanket near the woodstove. One consistent warm spot beats fussing with the thermostat all day.

02

Feed with warm water, not hot

Around 85–90°F water at feeding wakes a sluggish winter starter without cooking it. Feed a little more often in the cold months and use a touch less water in the dough itself — a slightly stiffer dough holds its shape better through a long, cool rise.

03

Let the clock stretch, and watch the dough instead

A recipe timed for a summer kitchen will lie to you in February. Bulk ferment can take half again as long. Stop counting hours and look for a dough that has risen about 50 percent, feels airy and domed, and jiggles as one piece. An overnight cold retard in the refrigerator makes it easier to score and gives the crust real flavor.

Seasonal letters

Letters from the year

Welcome to the season at Finch Mercantile

Holiday Journal · No. 1

Welcome to the season at Finch Mercantile

The holidays do not have to begin all at once. They can begin with one batch of candy.

There is a particular kind of quiet that settles over Maine just before the holidays begin.

The trees have nearly let go of their leaves. The mornings arrive cold and silver, and the woodstove becomes part of the daily rhythm again. Outside, the gardens are resting. Inside, the mixing bowls come down from the shelves, the pantry is checked, and the old handwritten recipes begin finding their way back onto the kitchen table.

This is the season of preparation.

Before the ribbons, greenery, and glowing candles appear, there is flour to bring home, butter to soften, fruit to preserve, and chocolate to melt. There are lists written in the margins of old notebooks and recipes remembered more by feel than by exact measurement.

At Finch Mercantile, the holidays begin here — in the kitchen.

They begin with the sound of a wooden spoon against an old mixing bowl. They begin with the scent of toasted nuts, warm maple, orange peel, vanilla, and chocolate filling the room. They begin with fudge being cooked slowly and then whipped until it becomes light, creamy, and smooth.

Soon, the worktable will be covered with shortbread, Maine maple whoopie pies, jars of wild blueberry preserves, old-fashioned candies, and boxes waiting to be packed and tied. Every order will be prepared by hand, one at a time, for someone's family, neighbor, employee, teacher, or friend.

But before the busiest days arrive, I try to pause.

I light a candle. I bring in a few evergreen branches. I wash the serving dishes that have been tucked away since last Christmas. I look through the old recipes and remember the people who first taught me that food can carry a story from one generation to another.

The holidays do not have to begin all at once. They can begin with one batch of candy. One wreath gathered from the woods. One recipe pulled from an old box. One quiet evening spent preparing the kitchen for everyone who will gather there.

This year, the Finch Mercantile Holiday Journal will follow that season from beginning to end. We will gather pieces of the Maine landscape to decorate our homes, remember the childhood traditions that shaped us, make old-fashioned candy, share recipes, and celebrate the imperfect, beautiful ways families create their own Christmas traditions.

The work is beginning, the kitchen is growing warm, and the holidays are almost here.

Welcome to the season at Finch Mercantile.

Made by hand — made to last.

Learning candy-making in my aunt's kitchen

Holiday Journal · No. 2

Learning candy-making in my aunt's kitchen

Some of my strongest holiday memories begin in the kitchen with my aunt.

Some of my strongest holiday memories begin in the kitchen with my aunt.

Candy-making felt almost magical to me as a child. Sugar, butter, chocolate, and a few ordinary ingredients could become something entirely different when they were heated, stirred, cooled, and shaped by hand.

My aunt taught me that candy could not be rushed. You had to pay attention to the temperature, the texture, and the way the mixture changed beneath the spoon. Sometimes you followed a written recipe. Other times, you watched and listened until it looked and sounded right.

By the time I was fourteen, I was making peanut butter balls. They were never perfectly shaped, and the chocolate did not always behave, but that was part of learning. Each batch taught me something the previous one had not.

The kitchen would fill with trays, bowls, waxed paper, and the unmistakable scent of warm chocolate. Finished candy was stored in tins or packed onto plates to be shared with family, friends, and neighbors. There was always a little sampling along the way — strictly for quality control, of course.

What stayed with me was not only the candy. It was the time spent together.

My aunt gave me more than instructions. She gave me the confidence to work with my hands, trust my instincts, and keep trying when a batch did not turn out exactly right. Those lessons eventually became part of Finch Mercantile.

Today, when I make fudge, peanut brittle, caramels, and other old-fashioned treats, I still think about those early days. The equipment may change and the batches may become larger, but the heart of the work remains the same.

Holiday candy carries memories. One taste can return us to a particular kitchen, a familiar voice, or a Christmas from many years ago.

That is why I continue making it by hand. I want every box from Finch Mercantile to carry a little of that feeling — the warmth of a family kitchen and the care of something made especially to be shared.

Made by hand — made to last.

The traditions worth carrying forward

Holiday Journal · No. 3

The traditions worth carrying forward

Every family has its own way of knowing that Christmas has arrived.

Every family has its own way of knowing that Christmas has arrived.

It may be a particular recipe, an old ornament, a familiar song, or the serving dish that appears only during the holidays. These small things become landmarks in our lives. We return to them year after year, often without realizing how deeply they matter.

Some traditions are carefully passed down. Others begin accidentally.

A recipe made once becomes something everyone asks for again. A child insists that one ornament must always hang in the same place. An ordinary evening spent decorating cookies becomes the story the family tells for years.

The traditions I treasure most are not the grand or perfect ones. They are the ones that make a home feel familiar.

They are found in old mixing bowls and handwritten recipes. They live in the scent of maple, chocolate, evergreen, and warm spices. They appear when everyone gathers around the kitchen table — even when the table is crowded, the house is noisy, and nothing looks quite like the picture we imagined.

At Finch Mercantile, many of the things we make are connected to those traditions. Fudge is cut and wrapped by hand. Whoopie pies are filled one at a time. Preserves are spooned into jars, candles are poured in small batches, and each gift box is packed with a real person in mind.

These are not simply products. They are things meant to become part of someone else's gathering.

A jar of wild Maine blueberry preserves may be opened during Christmas breakfast. A box of fudge may be passed around after dinner. A candle may be lit while a family decorates its tree. A recipe tucked inside a package may eventually become covered with notes and fingerprints in another family's kitchen.

That is how traditions continue. We receive something from the people who came before us, add a little of ourselves, and pass it forward.

The holidays remind us that the most meaningful things are rarely the newest or most expensive. They are the things filled with memory, made with care, and shared generously.

Those are the traditions worth carrying forward.

Made by hand — made to last.

Mud season, and the first honest light

Spring · The season

Mud season, and the first honest light

What the mercantile offers when the ground finally lets go.

Spring in Maine is not pretty. It is brown, it is wet, and the driveway tries to keep your boot. But the light changes before anything else does, and that is the part I wait for — a long slant of it across the kitchen floor around four in the afternoon, warm enough to prove the sun has been somewhere else all winter and has come home.

This is the sugaring and starting season. Maple whoopie pies, maple walnut bread, half pounds of maple fudge cut while the sap is still running somewhere up the road. I put up the last of the fall preserves and make room on the shelves. I take the wool socks off, put the sandals on over them anyway, and call it a wardrobe.

I am on the road most weeks in March and April, driving from one small operation to another, filling the back of the truck with syrup and grain and jars. My lil sidekick holds the fort, sends me pictures of the dog on my side of the bed, and asks when I am bringing home the maple. I come back tired and full-handed, and the workshop smells like maple for a month.

Berry weeks, and hands stained to the wrist

Summer · The season

Berry weeks, and hands stained to the wrist

Harvest is not romantic. It is bent backs, black flies, and the best jam of the year.

There is a two-week window in a Maine summer where everything happens at once. Wild blueberries come in low and stubborn on the barrens, strawberries before them, raspberries slipping in on the edges. You cannot schedule it. You answer when it calls.

I drive to the growers I know, sit on tailgates, talk about weather like it is family, and load flats until the truck sits low. Then it is the kitchen at five in the morning, jars boiling, linen apron already ruined, the radio on low so nobody wakes. Wild blueberry preserves, peach when the peaches are right, lemon basil strawberry fudge because summer deserves something bright.

Somewhere in there my lil sidekick comes through the kitchen with a hose and no shirt on and takes three jars' worth of berries straight out of the bowl. I let them. That is what the two weeks are for.

The apples, the woodpile, and everything at once

Autumn · The season

The apples, the woodpile, and everything at once

Autumn is our loudest season in the workshop, and my favorite.

By September the kitchen turns over completely. Apple butter goes on in the big pot and stays there most of a day, dark and slow, filling the whole house so thoroughly that the smell is in my sweaters until Christmas. Pumpkin chocolate chip cookies, decorated pumpkins the size of your hand, sugar leaves iced by hand at the table while my lil sidekick does homework across from me.

This is also mincemeat season, which nobody expects a woman my age to still be making from scratch, and which is exactly why I make it. Some recipes deserve to be carried whether or not they are fashionable.

I stack wood in October like it is a religion. Linen gives way to wool. The workshop light goes on at four and stays on. Everything I make from here to March is meant to be eaten with cold hands.

A quiet house, a warm oven, and long dark evenings

Winter · The season

A quiet house, a warm oven, and long dark evenings

Winter is when the mercantile does its most careful work.

Winter strips the calendar down. Nowhere to be. Nothing green to tend. Just the kitchen, the kettle, the starter on the counter under a linen towel, and the deep list of things I only get to make when the days are short — fudge in small pans, holiday cookie boxes, the cold month baking kits, sourdough that takes all day because the day is willing to give it.

The house is quieter now than it used to be. Only my lil sidekick is still here full-time. I still cook like a full table is coming home for supper, and about once a month it does — my grown ones come through with the grandkids, and I get to be Nonna for an afternoon. It is worth every extra loaf.

If you find me in January I will be in a linen dress, wool socks, and sandals, standing at the counter with flour to my elbows, entirely content and slightly cold.

Maple · The makers

Standing in somebody else's sugarhouse at 6 a.m.

Why we drive for the syrup instead of ordering it.

Maine maple is not one flavor. It is dozens. Early runs come out pale and delicate, late runs go dark and mineral and taste like the woods they came from. If you buy syrup off a pallet you get an average. If you stand in the sugarhouse and taste from the pan, you get a decision.

So we drive. We sit in the steam with people who have been boiling since before dawn, and we choose the grade that will do right by our maple walnut fudge, our whoopie pies, our maple bacon. I bring them fudge. They bring out the good jug from the back.

That is the whole business, honestly. Knowing the hands your ingredients came through, and being able to name them when someone asks.

Berries · The makers

Wild blueberries and the people who rake them

A small rant about the difference between wild and cultivated.

A cultivated blueberry is a fine thing. A wild Maine blueberry is a different fruit entirely — smaller, tighter, darker, tart in a way that survives sugar and heat. In fudge it holds. In preserves it stays itself.

The barrens are hard ground and the raking is hard work, done in August heat by people who do it every year of their lives. We buy from growers, not brokers, and we pay what it costs. If that makes an 8 oz jar cost what it costs, so be it.

I put up what we can get and when it is gone it is gone. There is no shame in a shelf that empties. That is what seasonal means.

The coast · Gathering

Down east for salt, and a day I did not plan

Some supply runs turn into the best day of the month.

I went down the coast for sea salt and came back with salt, two crates of seconds peaches, a lead on a woman who makes the crackers I have been trying to reverse-engineer for a year, and sand in the truck. Fog the whole way out. Sun by two.

There is a particular calm to a working harbor in the off-season — rope, diesel, cold air, nobody performing anything for anyone. I sat on a bollard and ate a sandwich and did not check my phone for an hour, which for me is close to a spiritual event.

The salt is in the caramel now. The peaches are in jars. The crackers are coming, in time.

The woods · Home

What the woods give back

On calm, wool, linen, and refusing the fake version of things.

I walk in the woods behind the house most days, in whatever I am already wearing, which is usually linen and wool and the wrong shoes. It is not exercise. It is a reset. The trees do not need anything from me, which after a day of everyone needing something is a real gift.

That walk is where the recipes come from — the balance of a spice, a name for a kit, a decision about a box. I bring it back to the kitchen and the workshop and get to work while it is still warm in my head.

I choose real materials for the same reason. Wool, linen, cast iron, glass, butter, cane sugar, the honest thing that ages instead of the clever thing that doesn't. It costs more and takes longer and lasts a lifetime. That is Finch Mercantile, start to finish.

Fifteen years of flour on the floor

The kitchen · Learning

Fifteen years of flour on the floor

Self-taught, and taught by every generation that left a recipe behind.

I have been baking for more than fifteen years. Not in a school, not under a chef, but in my own kitchen with my own two hands and a lot of failed batches I fed to the chickens. Most of what I know I learned by watching — aunts at a counter, grandmothers who never measured, neighbors who could tell a dough was ready by the sound of it hitting the bowl.

Techniques travel that way. How to fold a sourdough without tearing it. The right slump of a fudge before it sets. Why a preserve needs less sugar than the modern recipes say. You pick it up like an accent, by being near it long enough.

The recipes I keep are the ones that survived because they work. Not the pretty ones. Not the trendy ones. The ones that hold up to a Maine winter, a long drive, a grandkid who only eats the frosting. That is the whole archive, and I am still adding to it.

What makes a Maine whoopie pie a Maine whoopie pie

The kitchen · Whoopie pies

What makes a Maine whoopie pie a Maine whoopie pie

It is not a cookie, it is not a cupcake, and it is not small.

People order a whoopie pie away from here and get something the size of a silver dollar. That is a nice cookie. It is not a whoopie pie. A Maine whoopie pie is the size of your hand, two rounds of soft cake with a proper layer of filling between them, and you eat it standing up over a napkin because there is no dignified way to do it.

The cake matters more than the frosting. It should be dark and tender and just barely hold together — closer to a cake than a cookie, with a crumb that gives when you press it. If it snaps, someone overbaked it. If it crumbles dry, the same. Ours come out of the oven and get filled while they still remember the heat.

The traditional is chocolate with a vanilla cream filling, and it is the one most people grew up on. But the maple ones happen in sugaring season because the syrup is right there. Pumpkin with cream cheese arrives in October and leaves in December. Red velvet, carrot cake, maple walnut — those stay year-round because people kept asking. Every one is five dollars, and every one is made to order, which is why they taste like something instead of like a shelf.

If you have never had one, order the traditional first. If you have had one and you are homesick for it, order whatever your grandmother made. That is usually the right answer.

How to send a food gift that actually arrives well

The mercantile · Gifts

How to send a food gift that actually arrives well

Notes from packing boxes for people I will never meet.

Most of what I ship in November and December is going to somebody's mother, or somebody's kid in a city apartment, or a coworker whose name I will never learn. The person ordering usually cannot be there when the box is opened. That is the whole job — make sure the box does the being-there for them.

So: order earlier than feels necessary. December is not a month, it is a stampede, and the mail slows down exactly when everyone needs it not to. The Holiday Cookie Box closes December 11th for that reason. Anything made to order — pantry boxes, sample packs, fudge cut fresh — wants lead time.

Send things that travel. Fudge travels beautifully; it is dense and forgiving and improves after a day in the box. Preserves travel. Crackers and hard cookies travel. Anything frosted and delicate is a gamble in a warm truck, and I will tell you so before I let you spend money on it.

And write something. When you place an order you can leave a note in special requests, and I will put it in the box in my own hand. A jar of blueberry preserves is nice. A jar of blueberry preserves with a line in it about the summer you picked them together is the actual gift.

The Mercantile Letter

Notes from the workroom

Seasonal shop openings, new patterns, and what's rising on the kitchen counter. Sent quietly, never often.