Sewing · Reference

Fabric sourcing list

We would rather buy five yards of good cloth than twenty of cheap. Here is what we look for, and how to judge a bolt you cannot touch through a screen.

Step by step

  1. Step 1

    Order the swatch

    Any shop worth buying from will send swatches. Wash the swatch, dry it, then decide. Colour and hand both change in the first wash.

  2. Step 2

    Look for weight and width in the listing

    No stated gsm and no stated width usually means a reseller who has not handled the cloth. Move on.

  3. Step 3

    Buy European flax where you can

    Belgian and Lithuanian flax is long-staple and consistent. It costs more per yard and needs replacing far less often.

  4. Step 4

    Support the local shop for small runs

    New England fabric shops will cut a yard, order a bolt, and tell you honestly when something is not right for the project. That advice is worth the markup.

Write to us if you want to know exactly what is on the workroom shelf this season — it changes with what we can get.

Fabric yardage calculator

The Mercantile Letter

Notes from the workroom

Seasonal shop openings, new patterns, and what's rising on the kitchen counter. Sent quietly, never often.