Sewing · Pattern
The Heritage Apron Coat
This is a relaxed apron coat, not a fitted dress. It is drafted rather than printed, so make a muslin before cutting good cloth. A 1/2 inch seam allowance is included throughout. Small–Medium runs 41 inches centre back with a 48 inch chest sweep; Large–Extra Large runs 43 inches with a 56 inch sweep. Choose between sizes based on how much back overlap and layering room you want.
Step by step
Step 1
Draft the front
One full-length panel at half the finished chest plus 2 inches of ease at the hem, with a modest curved neckline and a gently dropped shoulder.
Step 2
Draft the back overlap
Two mirrored panels, each starting at the shoulder and reaching about two-thirds across the back so they overlap when worn.
Step 3
Set the sides and arm openings
Keep the sides nearly straight, widening 2 to 3 inches from underarm to hem. Use a relaxed 10 1/2 inch arm opening for Small–Medium, 11 1/2 inches for Large–Extra Large.
Step 4
Cut the bindings and pockets
Cut 2 inch bias strips long enough for all curved edges. Cut two pockets — 9 x 10 in or 10 x 11 in — adding 1 inch at the top for a double-fold hem. Add a 4 x 12 in back tab if you want one.
Step 5
Join and finish the seams
Sew the front shoulders to the back-overlap shoulders and finish with a flat-felled seam, French seam or serger. Sew the sides, press toward the back and topstitch for strength.
Step 6
Bind the neck and arms
Finish the neckline and arm openings with the bias binding, understitching where you can so it rolls neatly inward.
Step 7
Hem and pocket
Double-fold and stitch the back opening edges so the panels overlap freely. Turn the bottom hem under 1/2 inch twice and stitch. Finish the pocket tops with a 1 inch double fold, place them at comfortable hand height and topstitch twice around the sides and bottoms.
Step 8
Reinforce
Add the back tab or hanging loop, then reinforce the pocket corners and every shoulder junction.
An apron coat made for long kitchen days, porch mornings and garden baskets — the beautiful work that makes a home.
The Mercantile Letter
Notes from the workroom
Seasonal shop openings, new patterns, and what's rising on the kitchen counter. Sent quietly, never often.