Crochet + Fiber · Reference

Wool, ply and wear

Ply is how many singles are twisted together to make one strand, and twist is how hard they are held. A softly spun yarn feels wonderful in the skein and pills within a season. A firm three or four ply feels ordinary in the hand and looks the same in ten years.

Step by step

  1. Step 1

    Untwist an inch and count

    Let a few inches of yarn hang and let it untwist. Count the singles. One or two plies wear soft and fuzz early. Three and four plies hold a stitch edge and resist abrasion — that is what we want for a blanket that lives on a chair.

  2. Step 2

    Do the pull test

    Hold six inches and pull firmly. A well-twisted yarn stretches and springs back. A soft yarn drifts apart and leaves a halo. If it drifts on your hands, it will drift on the arm of the couch.

  3. Step 3

    Match ply to place in the house

    Firm three-ply wool for blankets, throws and anything that gets sat on. Softer two-ply for shawls and mittens worn against skin. Mercerised or long-staple cotton for kitchen cloths, which get wrung out and washed hot.

  4. Step 4

    Read the staple, not just the breed

    Long-staple wool — Corriedale, Romney, Bluefaced Leicester — pills far less than short fine merino, because there are fewer fibre ends to escape. A wool-alpaca blend gains drape and gives up a little of that resistance; that is the trade we make on our upgraded blankets.

Buy for the ply and the staple length, not the softness in the shop. A blanket earns its softness in the third year.

Blankets to order

The Mercantile Letter

Notes from the workroom

Seasonal shop openings, new patterns, and what's rising on the kitchen counter. Sent quietly, never often.